February is usually the month when you’re staring out the window at a frozen veg patch, wondering if anything will ever grow again.
While the ground outside is still a bit of a lost cause, things are a lot more optimistic if you’ve got a greenhouse, a polytunnel, or even just a decent cold frame. You don’t have to wait for the spring thaw to get your hands dirty; there are plenty of hardy crops that’ll happily get a head start if they’ve got a bit of protection from the worst of the frost. These 8 crops are perfect for bridge-building between the winter lull and the main growing season, giving you something to harvest long before your neighbours have even bought their seeds.
1. Broad beans
Broad beans are properly hardy and will tolerate the cold temperatures you’ll still get in February, but growing them under cover speeds everything up considerably. You can direct sow them into the soil if your polytunnel or greenhouse has beds, or start them in modules to transplant later. Space them about 20 centimetres apart in double rows.
The protection means they’ll germinate faster and establish stronger root systems before you move them outside in March or April. Early broad beans often avoid the worst of the blackfly infestations that plague later crops, which is a significant advantage. Choose varieties specifically bred for early sowing, like ‘Aquadulce Claudia’ or ‘Super Aquadulce’ for best results.
2. Early potatoes
February is the perfect time to chit your seed potatoes and get first earlies planted under cover. Chitting means leaving them in egg boxes in a cool, light place until they develop short, stubby shoots. Once they’ve sprouted, plant them in large containers, grow bags, or directly into greenhouse soil.
The protection from frost means you can plant a good month earlier than outdoor potatoes. You’ll be harvesting new potatoes by late April or May, which is weeks before anyone planting outdoors. Make sure you’ve got enough space because potatoes are greedy for room. Varieties like ‘Swift’ or ‘Rocket’ work well for this early planting because they’re bred for speed.
3. Salad leaves
Lettuce, rocket, mizuna, and mixed salad leaves all grow brilliantly under cover in February. You can succession sow every couple of weeks to keep a constant supply going. The protection means they’ll actually grow rather than just sitting there waiting for warmer weather.
Cut-and-come-again varieties are particularly useful because you can harvest outer leaves while the plant keeps producing. Oriental leaves like pak choi and mustard greens are especially good for February sowing because they’re more cold-tolerant than standard lettuce. Sow thinly in rows or broadcast seed across a bed, then thin seedlings to about 10 centimeters apart once they’re established.
4. Spinach
Spinach loves the cooler temperatures of early spring and will bolt quickly once things warm up, so February planting makes sense. Under cover, it’ll germinate reliably and grow steadily through late winter. Direct sow in rows about 30 centimetres apart, then thin seedlings to 7 centimetres spacing.
You can start harvesting baby leaves within a few weeks, or wait for full-sized plants. The protection prevents the worst weather damage and gives you tender, clean leaves rather than the mud-splattered outdoor crop. Perpetual spinach is particularly good for this because it’s more cold-hardy than true spinach and produces over a longer period.
5. Radishes
Radishes are one of the fastest crops you can grow, and under cover in February they’ll mature in about four weeks. They’re perfect for filling gaps between slower-growing crops or for getting children interested in growing because results come so quickly.
Sow directly into the soil in shallow drills about 1 centimetre deep, spacing seeds 2 centimetres apart. Rows should be 15 centimetres apart. Radishes need consistent moisture to prevent them becoming woody or splitting. French breakfast types or round red varieties both work well. The main advantage of growing them under cover is you get clean, crisp radishes without the slug damage that often affects outdoor sowings.
6. Early peas
Peas sown in February under cover will be ready to harvest in late spring, well before outdoor-sown crops. Choose early varieties rather than maincrop types because they’re bred to perform in cooler conditions. You can sow them in guttering or deep trays, then slide the whole lot out into a trench once they’ve germinated and the weather improves. This protects them from mice and gives them a strong start.
Alternatively, direct sow into greenhouse beds if you’ve got the space. Support is essential, as even dwarf varieties need something to climb. The earlier harvest is worthwhile because there’s nothing quite like fresh peas in May.
7. Spring onions
Spring onions sown under cover in February will be ready for pulling in late spring. They’re undemanding and quick, making them excellent for beginners or for squeezing into corners of greenhouse beds. Sow thickly in shallow drills about 1 centimetre deep, with rows 10 centimetres apart.
You don’t need to thin them because you’re harvesting the whole plant. They’ll tolerate quite cool temperatures, but the protection means faster, more reliable growth. White Lisbon is the standard variety, but there are red-stemmed types available if you want something different. Spring onions are useful to have constantly available for salads and cooking, so succession sowing makes sense.
8. Early carrots
Carrots sown in February under cover need to be early varieties like ‘Amsterdam Forcing’ or ‘Nantes’ types rather than maincrop storage carrots. The soil needs to be light and stone-free, or you’ll get forked, misshapen roots. Sow thinly in drills 1 centimetre deep, with 15 centimetres between rows.
Carrot seed is tiny, so mixing it with sand helps you sow more evenly. Thin seedlings carefully to about 5 centimetres apart once they’re established. The protection means you’ll be pulling sweet, tender carrots by early summer. Growing them under cover also reduces carrot fly problems because the pest isn’t active yet when you’re sowing, giving your crop a better chance of maturing undamaged.